Free climbing
A relatively new sport that has been practised in Sardinia since the 70's. Its name is literal, in that climbers do not use ropes or harness, just the strength of their hands and feet. The island itself is gaining a reputation as one of the most fascinating places Europe in which to enjoy this sport as there are many mountains and cliff faces.
Numerous professional climbers have visited Sardinia from Maurizio Oviglia to Garippa, and even famous climbers such as Manolo.
The best zones for free-climbing are to be found in the south and along the oriental coast; in fact along the coast of the Gulf of Orosei, many climbers have found some amazing cliffs and rock formations, giving rise to a new kind of sport tourism which brings many visitors throughout the year. Every recognised route is signposted with levels of difficulty.
Where to climb in Ogliastra
There are numerous equipped routes near the villages of Jerzu and Osini. Palazzo d'Inverno (Winter Palace): in the region of Jerzu, where there are 75 routes. Here we have seen noted climbers like Manolo, Garippa, Oviglia, and others. The routes reach up to 35m, and are equipped with resin taproots, chains and snap-hooks. Exposed to the sun only during the morning, you can reach these routes via the road that passes by the base.
Along the coast, further to the north, we have reference points at:
Baunei - Villaggio Gallico e Crueza de Ma'
Reached via the SS125 state road, before arriving at Baunei, turn right for Perda Longa. Follow the road and at the beginning of the descent, you will find a parking spot on the right, the cliffs and the Villaggio Gallico on the left, and Crueza de Ma' just ahead.
Punta Giradili - 8 routes - max. 400m - limestone Here, the climbers Sarti and Oviglia have traced a difficult route 260m in length. There are also other routes at a height of 20m.
Cala Goloritzè - L'Aguglia
19 routes - max. 140m - spectacular climbing, the flagship of climbing in Sardinia
Cala Luna 28 routes - max 70m - a tropical environment
Cala Fuili 2 sectors in disuse, Aguaplano and Ziu Martine. The most well-known are found in the chasm of Fuili and Cala Fuili cove. A wild environment.
Cala Gonone
- L'Alveare: a new sector with 14 routes traced by Piras. Sheer cliffs with a maximum height of 25m. Reached in 10mins by road from Cala Carte, parking at first curve.
- Settore Vigiani:Found in the Fuili chasm. 4 routes classified difficult.
Other recommended sites towards the heart of Supramonte, near Oliena:
Gorropu
3 routes - max 400m - difficult routes in the deepest canyon in Europe
Lanaittu
40 routes - max 40m - limestone rock
Prices: climbing all the day with an instructor costs about € 50.00, about € 30.00 for half day. Prices changes according to instructors. We show them for information only. You can find free climbing centres: Cala Gonone, Dorgali, Urzulei, Villagrande, Baunei, Osini, Jerzu, etc.
